Messing about in the snow

We’re coming to the end of November as I write this and snow has draped itself across most of Russia and Siberia, where temperatures have already touched -30° Celcius. It’s not even the true depths of winter yet, but the cold has been steadily creeping in from the icy North East since the end of September. A quick mobile picture received from an apartment window two time-zones East of Moscow revealed the truth: the kind of winter that our grandparents used to talk about, minus another 25°C or so, of course. Today in dreary England, you would hardly believe it. We complain a lot -too much in fact- about our half-hearted grey, ‘nippy’ and drizzly days, but most of us don’t really know what ‘harsh weather’ really means on a global scale. Travel broadens the mind; so the saying goes.

Siberia is set for another week and a half of snowfall, moderate this time (even leisurely), now that it’s conquest of the land is (almost) complete. Then, the long range forecast predicts several (short) days of sun glinting on the snowy expanse between cities and on the huddled rooftops of still-functioning Russia. Devoid of a gloomy but insulating cloud layer, those clear, bright skies will send the mercury plummeting; perhaps down to -30°C again.

But there are still things to do outside, there’s even a tourist season for the most determined; for those keen to see the other Russia, so to speak. I’ve mentioned this before, but a historian from Ekaterinburg emphasised that there are two Russias: the winter and summer versions. We won’t truly know Russia, he said, until we have seen them both.

Outside

The first and most important thing by all accounts is protection against the elements. Now is the time to pay strict attention to the advice of the tour company and the guides on the ground. Most of us within the moderate to warm climates of Europe will be completely out of our depth in this regard, being used to clothing that “will do” in our mild winters but which is nowhere near adequate in Siberia. Yes, failure to pay attention to this; to cut corners or to take foolish risks with the Russian winter can get you killed, quite easily. Ask Napoleon.

In short, it’s adequate insulation/protection all over, taking care to cover extremities. Your boots may be tough, but are they insulated (enough)? Bear in mind that they are your direct connection with the frozen ground. I spoke to a traveller who visited Russia during winter for work. Every time he left his vehicle to walk around a site, he could feel the ice suck another few degrees of warmth out through his feet – so he claimed.

Thermal underwear seems like an obvious choice, but bear in mind that interiors of the touristy  and/or functional kind are usually kept warm. The cold should be on the outside, right? Depending upon your plans, you may find that it’s most comfortable to have layers that you can discard when inside and subsequently refit (easily) prior to leaving. Safety trumps comfort though, so you need to get specific advice for the specific nature of your excursion/stay. Trudging through Siberia or hopping between Moscow shops?

Expect to see massive long coats and lots of fur, including the famous Ushanka hats with ear protection (extremities, remember?). Sorry if that offends your sensibilities, Russians choose survival first whilst animal rights fall way down the list.

More wintery thoughts, next time.